In a closed-loop cooling system, the heat exchanger acts like a radiator — transferring heat from your engine coolant into raw water before it’s pumped overboard. It’s what keeps your engine running at a stable temperature in all conditions. But like any part that handles saltwater, silt, and marine debris, it wears down. If the heat exchanger becomes clogged or starts leaking internally, your engine will overheat fast — even if everything else seems fine.
Inside the exchanger, engine coolant flows through tubes while raw water flows around them. The two fluids never mix — they only exchange heat. When working correctly, this keeps your engine temperature stable without exposing the block to corrosive seawater. But when something goes wrong inside the heat exchanger, both flow and temperature control suffer.
Most heat exchangers include zinc pencil anodes to protect against internal corrosion. If they’re neglected, the tubes inside the exchanger start to corrode — and repair becomes impossible. Check and replace zincs every few months during active use.
The heat exchanger is easy to forget — until your boat overheats and you’re left chasing problems. If you’re running closed cooling, inspect the exchanger every season. Clean it, flush it, and test it if you see any signs of trouble. Replace it when it’s time. A few hours of prevention here can save your engine from a full-blown meltdown later on.
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